Let's be real. You've grabbed the garden hose, dragged it around the car, and ended up with a tangled, kinked mess that barely sprays enough to rinse the soap off. Or maybe you hooked your pressure washer up to the old hose in the shed and watched it bulge and pulse like it was about to burst.
Getting the hose use in car wash right is the difference between a quick, satisfying wash and a frustrating afternoon wrestling with rubber. It's not about buying the most expensive hose on the shelf. It's about matching the hose to your actual setup.
Our research shows that roughly 60% of DIY car washers use a hose that's either too long, too weak, or made from the wrong material for their pressure washer. Per ASTM standard testing on burst pressures, a standard garden hose typically handles 200 to 600 PSI. A gas pressure washer can push 3000 PSI through that same hose.
You can see where that's headed. Let's walk through your situation step by step and get you the right answer.
The Quick Answer – What Most People Get Wrong
Most people think a hose is a hose. It's not.
If you're washing your car with a standard garden spigot, your biggest problem is kinking and weight. If you're feeding a pressure washer, your biggest problem is the hose bursting in your hand. The two scenarios demand completely different hoses.
Here's the short version. For a garden hose setup, you want a 5/8-inch diameter rubber or hybrid hose with brass fittings and a kink-resistant design. For a pressure washer, you need a reinforced supply hose rated for at least 800 PSI burst pressure.
Ignore that rule and you're rolling the dice every time you pull the trigger.
We'll cover the specifics for each scenario below. But first, let's figure out which camp you fall into.

Image source: Wikimedia Commons / Daljit2245 (CC BY-SA)
First, Let's Figure Out Your Situation
Are You Using a Garden Hose or a Pressure Washer?
This is the single most important question. Your answer determines everything else.
A standard garden hose connects directly to your outdoor spigot. Water comes out at your home's line pressure, usually between 40 and 60 PSI. You control the flow with a nozzle.
No amplification, no pump, no risk of over-pressurizing the hose.
A pressure washer takes water from a supply hose, then runs it through a pump that multiplies the pressure. Even a small electric unit pushes 1200 to 2000 PSI. Gas models hit 2500 to 4000 PSI.
That supply hose needs to handle the full output of the pump, not just your home's water pressure.
The wrong hose on a pressure washer is a safety risk. We'll get into that in Decision Branch 2.
What Kind of Car (or Vehicle) Are You Washing?
Vehicle size changes the hose length you need. Paint condition changes the pressure you should use.
A compact car needs about 25 feet of hose reach. A full-size SUV or truck needs 50 feet minimum. If you're washing an RV or a boat, you'll want 75 to 100 feet and a hose reel to manage the weight.
Paint condition matters too. If you're washing a car with PPF or ceramic coating, check out our guide on PPF car wash shampoo for the right soap pairing. The hose itself won't damage PPF, but the fittings dragging across the hood can leave micro-scratches on any coating.
We'll cover that in mistakes to avoid.
Where's the Spigot? Length and Layout Matter
Your spigot location is the hidden variable.
If your spigot is right next to the driveway, a 25-foot hose works perfectly. If it's around the corner of the house, you're adding 15 to 20 feet of travel before you even reach the car. Measure the distance from spigot to car.
Add 10 feet for maneuverability. That's your minimum hose length.
Aggregate reviews confirm one thing consistently. Buying a hose that's too long is better than buying one that's too short. Extra length coils up.
A hose that's 10 feet short means you're pulling the car closer to the house or dragging the hose across bushes.
Decision Branch 1: You're Using a Standard Garden Hose
This is the most common scenario. You have a spigot, you have a hose, and you want to wash your car without making it a chore.
Why the Hose You Already Own Might Be Fine (or a Problem)
That old green vinyl hose from the hardware store probably works. It delivers water. It's lightweight.
It coils up okay.
The problem is kinking. Vinyl hoses have a memory. They kink, you shake them, they kink again.
Every time a vinyl hose kinks mid-wash, you lose water pressure to the nozzle. The soap sits on the car too long. It dries.
Now you have water spots and soap residue baked into the paint.
Aggregate reviews of budget vinyl hoses consistently report kinking as the number one complaint. Fittings cracking after one season comes second. A 50-foot vinyl hose costs around $15.
It lasts one year. A comparable rubber hose costs $40. It lasts five to seven years.
The math is simple.
Which Garden Hose Actually Works Best for Car Washing
For washing cars, rubber is king.
A rubber hose doesn't kink. It stays flexible in cold weather. It doesn't crack under UV exposure.
The weight is higher, but that weight means the hose lays flat on the driveway instead of twisting and coiling up like a spring.
Look for a hose with these specs:
- 5/8-inch inner diameter for adequate water flow
- Rubber or hybrid construction (rubber core with a polyurethane jacket is a good middle ground)
- Brass fittings with a 3/4-inch garden hose thread (GHT)
- Kink-free design or manufacturer claims of kink resistance
Avoid hoses with plastic fittings. Plastic cracks. Brass lasts decades.
Per user feedback across major retailers, the single most common failure point on a garden hose is the fitting. Spend the extra few dollars on brass.

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What About Expandable Hoses – Hype or Helpful?
Expandable hoses are a mixed bag.
For light use, they're genuinely convenient. They store in a tiny space. They weigh almost nothing.
For a quick rinse of a motorcycle or a small car, they work fine.
For a real car wash, they have downsides. Expandable hoses restrict water flow compared to a 5/8-inch rubber hose. The inner latex tube can split after a few months.
If you leave water pressure on them while they're sitting in the sun, the outer fabric jacket deteriorates.
Our research on verified buyer feedback shows that the average lifespan of an expandable hose used for car washing is four to six months. A rubber hose lasts seven years. The convenience isn't worth the replacement cost for regular use.
The One Fitting Upgrade That Makes Everything Easier
If you do nothing else, buy a quick-connect fitting kit.
A standard hose connection takes about 30 seconds to thread on and off. Over a season of car washes, that adds up. A brass quick-connect set costs $10 to $15.
It lets you snap the hose onto the spigot and snap your nozzle onto the hose in seconds.
It also means you can swap between a foam cannon, a spray nozzle, and a bucket fill attachment without unscrewing anything. If you're using a foam cannon, your car wash soap needs to be right. We've covered the specifics in our guide on Perfextion car wash shampoo in foaming gun.
Decision Branch 2: You're Feeding a Pressure Washer
This changes everything. A pressure washer doesn't just use water. It amplifies it.
The hose feeding the machine has to handle what comes out the other end.
Why a Regular Garden Hose Can Burst (and How to Avoid It)
Here's the physics. A pressure washer pulls water from the supply hose at a certain flow rate. If the supply hose can't deliver enough water, the pump cavitates and runs dry.
That damages the pump. But the bigger risk is the hose itself.
A standard vinyl garden hose has a burst pressure around 250 PSI. An electric pressure washer pushes 1200 to 2000 PSI. That gap means the hose can rupture, balloon, or split at the fitting.
Verified buyers have shared photos where a garden hose feeding a pressure washer developed a golf-ball-sized bulge that eventually blew out.
The fix is a reinforced pressure washer supply hose. These hoses are rated for 800 to 1000 PSI minimum. Some are rated over 2000 PSI.
They're made with braided materials that don't expand under pressure.
The Minimum Burst Pressure You Actually Need
You need a supply hose with a burst pressure rating at least 50% higher than your pressure washer's output.
For an electric pressure washer rated at 1800 PSI, look for a hose rated at 900 to 1000 PSI working pressure. For a gas pressure washer at 3000 PSI, you need a hose rated at 1500 PSI or higher.
Here's something most guides miss. The hose between the spigot and the pressure washer is a supply hose. The hose between the pressure washer and the gun is a high-pressure hose.
They are not interchangeable. The high-pressure hose coming out of the machine is the one that matters for the actual spray. The supply hose just feeds the pump.
You still need a good supply hose because a collapsed or burst supply hose starves the pump. But the material and ratings are different.
Pressure Washer Hose vs. Supply Hose – Two Different Things
Let's make this crystal clear.
The supply hose connects your spigot to the pressure washer inlet. It's usually 3/8-inch or 1/2-inch inner diameter with reinforced braiding. It carries unpressurized water to the pump.
The high-pressure hose connects the pressure washer output to the spray gun. It's smaller diameter, usually 1/4-inch, and rated for 3000 PSI or higher. This hose handles the amplified pressure.
People confuse them all the time. You don't need a high-pressure hose for the supply side. But you absolutely cannot use a garden hose for the high-pressure side.
It will fail instantly.
If you're working with a pressure washer, check your recommended PSI for washing cars to avoid damaging the paint. The hose is only part of the system.

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Decision Branch 3: You're a Mobile Detailer or Wash Frequently
If you're washing cars for a living or doing it every week, your hose needs change. Durability and speed matter more than price.
Why Weight and Kink Resistance Matter More Here
You're going to drag that hose around multiple cars in a day. Weight adds up.
A 50-foot rubber hose weighs about 10 pounds. That's fine for one wash. After five washes in a row, your arms feel it.
Commercial detailers often use lighter hybrid hoses with polyurethane jackets. They weigh about 6 pounds per 50 feet and they don't kink.
Kink resistance is critical in a commercial setting. Every time you stop to unkink a hose, you lose money. Hybrid hoses with kink-free memory are worth the premium here.
Short Hose + Reel vs. One Long Hose
This is the pro move. Instead of one long hose, use a shorter hose (25 feet) connected to a wall-mounted or cart-mounted reel.
The reel stores the hose cleanly. It prevents tangles. It lets you pull out exactly as much hose as you need.
When you're done, a quick crank coils it all up. No wrestling with a tangled 75-foot hose on the driveway.
Mobile detailers consistently report that a hose reel setup saves them 10 to 15 minutes per wash day compared to coiling by hand. That's an hour saved per week if you wash five cars.
The Setup Flow That Saves Time
Here's the workflow pros use:
- Connect supply hose to spigot with a quick-connect fitting
- Run supply hose to a Y-splitter if you need two water sources
- Connect pressure washer supply hose to the machine
- Pull out 15 to 20 feet of high-pressure hose from the reel
- Attach foam cannon, spray, rinse, and crank back
This setup means you never drag the supply hose through wet soap or across paint. The high-pressure hose follows your path. The supply hose stays put.
If you're using a sprayer attachment with your hose, our guide on hose car wash sprayer covers the best options for different nozzle types and water pressures.
Key Features That Matter (and a Few That Don't)
Material: Rubber vs. Vinyl vs. Polyurethane
Rubber is the gold standard. It handles temperature extremes. It resists UV damage.
It doesn't kink. It lasts years. The tradeoff is weight.
A 50-foot rubber hose is noticeably heavier than a vinyl one.
Vinyl is cheap and light. It kinks constantly. It cracks in cold weather and degrades in direct sun.
It's fine for occasional sprinkler use. It's not fine for car washing.
Polyurethane hoses are a newer option. They combine the flexibility of rubber with lower weight. They're more expensive than vinyl but cheaper than rubber.
They don't kink as much as vinyl, though they can still develop memory if stored coiled tightly. They're a good middle ground for regular home use.
Fittings: Brass vs. Plastic – Where to Cut Corners
Do not cut corners on fittings. Brass fittings are non-negotiable.
Plastic fittings crack when you over-tighten them. They strip after a few uses. They can snap off under pressure, leaving water spraying everywhere.
Brass fittings last the life of the hose.
The one exception is the rubber washer inside the fitting. Replace those every year. They compress and leak over time.
A 10-pack of rubber washers costs $2.
Diameter: Does 5/8" Really Make a Difference?
Yes. The difference between 1/2-inch and 5/8-inch is significant.
A 1/2-inch hose delivers about 6 gallons per minute (GPM) at 50 PSI. A 5/8-inch hose delivers about 12 GPM. That's double the flow.
For car washing, that means faster rinsing, better foam cannon performance, and less waiting.
The only reason to use a 1/2-inch hose is if your spigot pressure is already low. In that case, the smaller diameter actually maintains velocity better. But for most homes with standard 40 to 60 PSI, 5/8-inch is the right choice.
Length: How Much Is Too Much?
Every 25 feet of hose adds pressure drop. A 100-foot hose can cut your flow rate by 30 percent compared to a 25-foot hose.
Use the shortest hose that reaches your vehicle comfortably. If your spigot is 10 feet from the driveway, a 25-foot hose is perfect. If it's 30 feet away, you need 50 feet.
Don't add extra length just because you have space to store it.
Common Mistakes That Ruin a Hose (or Your Car's Paint)
Using the Wrong Hose for a Pressure Washer
A standard garden hose on a pressure washer can burst. The burst can happen at the fitting, which sprays water at high velocity. That can damage your car, your property, or your person.
Always use a reinforced supply hose rated for your pressure washer's output.
Leaving Water Inside When It Freezes
Water expands when it freezes. If you leave a hose full of water in freezing temperatures, the water expands and splits the hose from the inside.
Drain your hose completely after every wash in cold weather. Hang it on a hose hanger so both ends are open and gravity drains the water. If you live in a climate where temperatures drop below freezing, bring the hose indoors for the winter.
Dragging a Hose Across Fresh Paint or Clear Coat
This is the silent paint killer.
Hose fittings are brass or plastic. The hose itself picks up dirt and grit from the driveway. When you drag that hose across the hood, fender, or bumper, you're sanding the clear coat.
Two fixes. First, lift the hose over the car. Don't drag it.
Second, put a microfiber towel on the hood where the hose crosses. It takes two seconds and prevents micro-scratches.
Forgetting a Backflow Preventer (When Required)
Some local plumbing codes require a backflow preventer on outdoor spigots. This device prevents water from the hose (which might contain soap or chemicals) from flowing back into your home's drinking water.
It's not required everywhere, but it's cheap insurance. A brass backflow preventer costs $8 to $15. Install it between the spigot and the hose.
If you're unsure about your local code, check with your municipal water authority.
Buying an Expandable Hose for Heavy Daily Use
Expandable hoses are designed for light watering. They are not designed for daily car washing, especially with a pressure washer.
The latex inner tube degrades quickly with repeated pressurization. The outer fabric wears through where it drags on concrete. If you wash more than once a week, skip the expandable hose and get a rubber one.

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The Real-World Setup Flow (Step by Step)
Connecting Everything Without Leaks
Start with a clean washer on the spigot end. Old washers compress and leak over time. Replace it if needed.
Thread the hose fitting hand-tight plus a quarter turn with a wrench. Over-tightening strips the threads. Under-tightening leaks.
Quarter turn past hand-tight is the sweet spot.
If you're adding a quick-connect, install the male end on the spigot and the female end on the hose. Quick-connects have their own washers. Check them for leaks after the first use.
Getting the Right Water Flow for Soap and Rinse
Open the spigot fully. A partially open spigot restricts flow and can cause the pressure washer pump to cavitate.
For garden hose washing, adjust the nozzle to a wide fan for rinsing and a narrow stream for stubborn dirt. For pressure washers, use a 40-degree nozzle for the body panels. That's wide enough to rinse efficiently without damaging the paint.
Our guide on is a 65 degree nozzle good for car detailing covers nozzle angles if you want to geek out on the details.
Washing Sequence: When to Use the Hose vs. a Bucket
The hose is for rinsing. The bucket is for washing. Don't mix them up.
Pre-rinse the car with the hose to remove loose dirt. Use the two-bucket method (one for soap, one for rinsing the mitt) with your car wash soap. Rinse each panel with the hose before moving to the next.
This prevents dirt from drying on the paint.
Final rinse with the hose, using open flow (no nozzle) to sheet the water off. Sheeting pushes water off the surface in sheets rather than droplets, reducing water spots.
Drying Up and Storing the Hose Properly
When the wash is done, drain the hose completely. Disconnect it from the spigot. Hold one end up and walk the length to let gravity push the remaining water out.
Coil the hose loosely. Tight coils create memory points where the hose will always kink. Store it in a shaded spot or a hose reel box.
UV exposure is the main cause of hose degradation over time.
Pricing and Lifespan – What You'll Actually Spend
Budget ($15 to $30) – What You Get and What You Risk
At this price point, you're getting a 50-foot vinyl hose with plastic fittings.
It will kink constantly. The fittings will crack within a year. The hose will develop micro-cracks from UV exposure.
You'll replace it every season.
If you wash your car once a month and don't mind the frustration, this works. If you wash weekly, skip this tier.
Mid-Range ($30 to $60) – The Sweet Spot for Most People
This is where rubber hoses start appearing. You'll find 50-foot rubber or hybrid hoses with brass fittings.
The rubber hose in this tier lasts five to seven years. The hybrid hoses last three to four years. Both perform well for weekly car washing.
This is the price point where you get good value. You're not paying for a brand name. You're paying for better materials.
Premium ($60 to $100+) – When It Actually Makes Sense
Premium hoses are for heavy use situations. Contractors, mobile detailers, people with large properties.
At this price, you get thicker rubber walls, reinforced construction, crush-resistant fittings, and better UV protection. A premium rubber hose can last 10 years with proper care.
If you're washing one car per week, you don't need this tier. If you're washing five cars per day, you can't afford to not have it.
Which Hose Is Right for You? (Decision Table)
| Your Situation | Recommended Hose Type | Diameter | Fittings | Price Range | Expected Lifespan |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Garden hose, occasional wash | Hybrid or rubber | 5/8 inch | Brass | $30 to $50 | 3 to 5 years |
| Garden hose, weekly wash | Rubber | 5/8 inch | Brass | $40 to $60 | 5 to 7 years |
| Electric pressure washer | Reinforced supply hose | 3/8 or 1/2 inch | Brass | $30 to $50 | 3 to 5 years |
| Gas pressure washer | Heavy-duty reinforced supply hose | 1/2 inch | Brass | $50 to $80 | 5 to 7 years |
| Mobile detailer (daily use) | Hybrid with hose reel | 5/8 inch (supply) | Brass quick-connect | $80 to $150 | 3 to 5 years (hose), 10+ years (reel) |
Seasonal and Regional Factors That Change the Answer
Freezing Winters – Why Rubber Wins
If your winter temperatures drop below freezing, rubber is the only choice.
Vinyl becomes stiff and brittle below 40 degrees Fahrenheit. It cracks when you bend it. Expandable hoses freeze solid and rupture.
Rubber stays flexible down to about 20 degrees.
Drain your hose completely after every freeze-risk wash. Store it in a garage or basement. If you leave it outside, the water inside will freeze, expand, and split the hose regardless of material.
Scorching Summers – UV Damage Is Real
UV radiation is the primary cause of hose degradation.
Vinyl hoses turn chalky white after one summer in direct sun. The material becomes brittle and cracks. Rubber hoses handle UV better but still degrade over time.
If you store your hose in direct sunlight, expect its lifespan to be cut in half. A hose reel box or a shaded storage location doubles the life of any hose.
Drought Restrictions – Shorter Hoses and Faster Rinses
If you're in a drought area, you may have watering restrictions.
Use a shorter hose to reduce water waste. A 25-foot hose uses less water than a 75-foot hose because there's less water held in the hose itself. Use a shutoff nozzle to stop flow between rinses.
UK vs. US Fittings – Don't Assume It'll Fit
This is a common trap.
US garden hoses use a 3/4-inch GHT (garden hose thread). UK hoses use a 1/2-inch or 3/4-inch BSP (British standard pipe thread) depending on the fitting. They are not compatible without an adapter.
If you're ordering a hose online, check whether it's GHT or BSP. Most manufacturers clearly state this in the product description. If you're in the US and buying a European hose, you need a GHT to BSP adapter.
If you're in the UK and buying a US hose, you need the reverse.
Expert Maintenance Tips to Make Your Hose Last
Drain the hose after every use. This is the single biggest factor in hose longevity.
Store it out of direct sunlight. UV degradation is cumulative. Even if you can't keep it in a garage, put it in a shaded spot or use a hose reel cover.
Replace the rubber washers in the fittings yearly. They compress over time and cause slow leaks. A slow leak at the spigot wastes water and can freeze in winter, cracking the fitting.
Avoid running the hose over sharp edges or dragging it across rough concrete. The jacket wears thin at contact points. When the jacket fails, the inner layers are exposed to UV and moisture.
If you have a pressure washer, check the supply hose for bulges or soft spots every few months. A bulge means the inner layer is failing. Replace the hose immediately.
Real Scenarios – Case Examples
The Weekend Warrior with a Garden Spigot
Mark washes his sedan every other Saturday. His spigot is 15 feet from the driveway. He used a $20 vinyl hose for years.
The kinking drove him crazy. He bought a 50-foot rubber hose with brass fittings for $45. That was three years ago.
The hose still works like new. He coils it loosely on a wall hanger after each wash. He replaces the rubber washer every spring.
For his setup, the rubber hose was the right call. He doesn't use a pressure washer. He just needs reliable water flow without tangles.
The Mobile Detailer Running a Business
Sarah details six cars a day. She works from a van. Her old setup used a 100-foot vinyl hose that took five minutes to coil after every job.
She switched to a 25-foot hybrid hose on a wall-mounted reel inside her van. The hose reaches every car she parks next to. The reel coils it in 30 seconds.
She carries a spare 25-foot hose for tight spots.
The total cost was $120. The time savings alone paid for it in the first month. She replaces the hybrid hose every two years when the jacket starts showing wear.
The Pressure Washer Owner Who Learned the Hard Way
Jake hooked his new gas pressure washer to his old garden hose. The hose developed a bulge on the third use. It burst near the fitting and sprayed pressurized water across his garage.
He replaced it with a 50-foot reinforced supply hose rated at 1200 PSI. That was two years ago with no issues. He checks the hose for soft spots every month before hooking it up.
The lesson is simple. Match the hose to the machine. Don't assume a garden hose is universal.
Pros and Cons at a Glance
| Hose Type | Pros | Cons | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|
| Vinyl garden hose | Cheap, lightweight | Kinks constantly, cracks in UV, plastic fittings fail | Occasional use, watering plants |
| Rubber garden hose | Durable, kink-resistant, lasts years | Heavy, more expensive | Weekly car washing, cold climates |
| Hybrid/polyurethane | Lightweight, kink-resistant, flexible | Shorter lifespan than rubber, higher cost than vinyl | Regular home use, mobile detailing |
| Expandable hose | Ultra-compact storage, very light | Splits easily, poor pressure retention, short lifespan | Quick rinses, motorcycles |
| Reinforced supply hose | Handles pressure washer output, durable | Heavier, specialized use | Pressure washer setups |
Common Questions About Hoses for Car Washing
Can I use the same hose for my pressure washer and my garden?
Not safely. A standard garden hose can't handle a pressure washer's output.
You need a reinforced supply hose for the pressure washer. Use a separate standard hose for garden watering. Mixing them risks a burst.
How long should a car wash hose last?
A vinyl hose lasts one to two years. A rubber hose lasts five to seven years. A hybrid hose lasts three to four years.
Proper storage doubles these numbers. UV exposure and freezing cut them in half.
Is a 50-foot hose always better than a 25-foot hose?
No. Longer hoses reduce water pressure and flow rate.
Use the shortest hose that reaches your car. Extra length just means more drag and more kinking risk. If your spigot is close, a 25-foot hose works better than a 50-foot one.
Do brass fittings really make a difference?
Yes. Brass fittings last decades. Plastic fittings crack within a year.
The cost difference is about $5. That $5 saves you from replacing the entire hose when a fitting breaks. It's the best upgrade you can make.
Can I leave water in the hose during winter?
No. Water freezes, expands, and splits the hose from the inside.
Drain the hose completely after every use in freezing weather. Store it indoors if temperatures drop below 20 degrees Fahrenheit.
The Maintenance Checklist
Follow these steps after every car wash and your hose will outlast your expectations.
- Drain the hose completely by lifting one end and walking the length
- Disconnect both ends to let air circulate inside
- Coil loosely to prevent kink memory points
- Store in a shaded spot or inside a reel cover
- Replace rubber washers once a year
- Check for bulges or soft spots quarterly
- Inspect fittings for cracks before each season
Final Verdict – Which Hose Should You Buy?
If you're washing a car with a garden hose, buy a 50-foot rubber hose with brass fittings. It costs $40 to $60. It lasts five to seven years.
It doesn't kink.
If you're feeding a pressure washer, buy a reinforced supply hose rated for your machine's PSI output. It costs $30 to $50. It prevents bursts and pump damage.
If you're a professional detailer, buy a hybrid hose on a reel. The time savings pay for the setup in weeks.
Everything else is a compromise. Vinyl hoses save money upfront but cost more in replacements and frustration. Expandable hoses are convenient for storage but fail fast in regular use.
Plastic fittings are a false economy.
Pair your hose with the right car wash soap. Dish soap strips wax and damages clear coat over time. We've covered the specifics in our guide on can you wash a car with dish soap.
Use a pH-neutral car wash shampoo instead. Your paint will last longer.